4. The Northwest
1450 854.6 drive 82F -> 61F
We headed for the north exit of Crater Lake National Park
and were soon eastbound on 138, a cut through a tall forest, back to 97 on
which we would head north.
We said we would try not to miss lunch tomorrow – or
put it in a different time zone.
He said, ÒWhat if I eat in all time zones?Ó I said, ÒYouÕd be fat.Ó
I commented to John that we needed to get control over our
eating schedule. We should either
eat regularly for our time zone or intentionally switch our schedule to another
time zone. But, I was not feeling
well because we were getting busy and skipping meals.
Soon John was napping.
Had to wait a long time for wreck to clear, maybe half an
hour.
We came upon a big backup of traffic, the sort of backup
that has people stopping their engines and getting out of their cars. And walking their dogs.
I didnÕt write down when it started but we must have sat
there for half an hour. I asked
John if heÕd ever been in anything like this before. ÒYes, when we got the jaw bones.Ó
We had jaw bones from a coyote or some similar sized animal
under our bedroom window that had come from just such a Òlet your kids out of
the car to exploreÓ stop in traffic like this once. That had been a long time ago. Had John even been four or five? Was that the trip through fifteen or sixteen states when we
went by Òthe facesÓ (Mt. Rushmore) on the way home and stopped for JohnÕs fifth
birthday at Chuck E Cheeses in Denver?
I didnÕt remember if it was an accident or construction. Seemed like construction.
1600 905.3 82 Traffic moves after wreck stop
Finally traffic started moving again, slowly. There was some back and forth for a
while as one lane from each side of the road was allowed to pass, but by the
time we came to the accident scene, the threshold of a bridge, everything was
cleared and gone
1650 932.3 La Pines DQ 88F $10.75
At nearly five in the afternoon we stopped for ÒlunchÓ (see
Òeating on scheduleÓ above) at a Dairy Queen.
1723 drive 83
It was warm out as we continued up the road.
1800 called mom and Katy at 10 & 405 -> Joanne,
dropped
rush hour in Bend, OR
We got into the rush hour in Bend, Oregon. As we left town on 97 North, we had
lots of bars on the phone and called Viann, finding her and Katy visiting
Joanne in the hospital in Santa Monica.
The call dropped in the middle of a story, we had gone back out of
range. No outdoor antenna for the
cell.
Bend was big enough and had enough industry for a rush hour.
1815 Redmond 76 974.9 = 88736 85F full serve
$55.55
= 17.925 X $3.099
Stopped in Redmond for a fill up. Before I could get out of the car a kid was there to take my
card, run it, and do the fill up.
Someone also washed the windshield. When done, he knew how to press ÒnoÓ for car wash and ÒyesÓ
for receipt, something that had gotten me a few times in prior fill ups. Now thatÕs full service.
1821 continue
talked
about ministry:
doesnÕt
know anything – needs a survey.
Admires James, Kyle, Kristen, Joan.
Needs to learn a lot – and
how to live on little.
This ministry makes a new
relationship although Joan pointed it out in 3rd grade.
I told the story of Pat Boone
– then Debbie.
But – ÒDonÕt worry about
it dad. Nothing changes.Ó
Two weeks before this trip John had gone with the church youth
group to Knoxville, Tennessee for CHIC, ÒCovenant High In ChristÓ, the
triennial retreat for Covenant high school students. He had been asked to say something about it from the pulpit
in church. He had related a few
stories, including the one about Christ being like a moose and then said that
he was one of those considering going into ministry.
I asked him what he knew about ministry. ÒNothing.Ó Then why the interest?
I pursued. Well, many of
his role models had been his pastors at church and church had been a major part
of his life. Thinking back I
realized this was true.
He said he liked the speakers at CHIC who told stories and
that he might want to be able to do something like that.
We agreed that he was in the Òstory collectingÓ stage of life
right now, but that learning how to speak in public formally might be helpful.
Seeing that he really didnÕt have much vision about what his
next steps might be, I suggested a survey of many types of ministry. Thinking back, I realized he had
already been doing this. He had
been involved in childrenÕs choir and youth band, had spoken from the pulpit
more than once, had been with the youth to help at Church of the Redeemer in
south central L.A. and had also participate in that groupÕs nights at the bad weather
shelter that was hosted by our church.
He was planning to go on the international mission trip with the youth
next year, and had been in church and Sunday school as long as he could
remember. Joan Reeve Owens, his
childrenÕs choir director and now music pastor for the church, had mentioned to
me that he had ministry potential when he was in third grade. He had also been named Bank President,
the top role in his third grade class at school, not necessarily a ministry
role, but a leadership one.
It occurred to me that this new information meant a shift in
our relationship. My image of
John, my expectations, in part a reflection of my own image and expectations,
would need to change. IÕd need to
think about this.
A useful skill in ministry was to be able to live on nearly
nothing. I had not taught him this
and was unlikely to. Maybe he
should spend time with his grandmother who had spent her life living on very
little, one of the costs of many ministries.
I told John the story of Pat Boone, a famous actor who had
gotten rich selling Chevrolets when I was little. Then, as I was getting to be college age his daughter,
Debbie, became a famous Christian music star. He quipped that he had gone on a long walk to think about
the difference between being Pat Boone and being Debbie BooneÕs father.
John said, ÒDonÕt worry about it dad, nothing changes.Ó
He slept some.
Not tired of talking about stuff.
When he woke up I asked him if he was tired of talking about
stuff so much. He said, ÒNo.Ó
É ok.
1858 talked to Viann and Katy at hospital
Viann called back.
They had worried when the call dropped and we hadnÕt called back. Kind of like yesterday but the other
way around. We were fine. They were still at the hospital.
1908 1002.9 Best Western, Madras, OR, Room 217
The next goal was Mt. St. Helens in southern Washington, but
to get there today would break our rule of driving after dark. We decided to look for a hotel with a
pool.
In Madras we were planning to switch from the Highway 97 to
Highway 26 and proceed via Portland.
Going to the freeway (I-5) appeared to be the only way to get to Mt. St.
Helens from here, or possibly anywhere.
Studying the roads through that region, it appeared to be fairly
isolated.
Before we got to the Highway 26 junction, we saw a Best
Western and pulled in. The area
and the clientele looked blue collar.
Three men were getting in a car, probably to go eat. Some people were in the pool. The young desk clerk was irritable.
We moved our stuff into room 217, on the end upstairs and
went down to the pool. There was a
sign with a long warning about not getting into the chlorine if you had dyed
hair. I made a joke about this with
a man in the hot tub who appeared to be older than I was. He didnÕt get it. Back in the room on the computer,
Google maps, from our APRS position, showed some interesting quarry-looking
areas just west of town. We could
see a high railroad bridge over a road going that way.
John made a friend in the pool – a freshman from
North of Vancouver (OR?) here with his grandfather – looks like –
and mother – at a camp digging rocks for something – has a lapidary
tumbler (but didnÕt call it that).
John made friends with a kid in the pool and, without
learning his name, did find out that he was going to be a high school freshman
at some Vancouver (Oregon? Washington? Canada? We thought maybe Oregon) this fall and was here at some rock
digging camp. He had a device that
I recognized from his description as a lapidary tumbler, a machine like a small
clothes dryer in which rocks were tumbled to polish them against each
other. He had hair down in his
face. The man in the hot tub was
with him, perhaps his grandfather.
His mother, a rather large woman, was in another room upstairs, looked
like 215. The boy wanted to stay
in the pool until it closed at 10:30 but the adults, like me, were more
interested in cooling off, calming down, and moving to the next restful
activity, like TV watching.
I did a couple of the cold pool to hot tub cycles then gave
up and went in to the showers.
John stayed a while longer, talking to his friend.
Watched some TV – none of it all way through. Too hyper.
John would turn on the TV and flip around stopping whenever
something looked interesting.
Anytime a scene would get boring or turn sexual, heÕd flip immediately
before it got too steamy, or bogged down.
Around midnight he turned off the TV and went to sleep.
HeÕs asleep now.
IÕm tired.
2006 August 4
We got up late, around 9:30, the latest of the trip so
far. By the time we got to the
hotel-provided breakfast there wasnÕt much of anything left. It was being tended, loosely speaking,
by another young woman. It looked
like the whole hotel operation was run by five or six people who were about
20. Inexperienced to say the
least, but the guy who checked us out was pleasant at least.
John wanted to go white water rafting. I got a brochure, hesitated, and kept
it.
check out $98.99
1045 1002.9 88764 82F
1050 1004.0 Safeway 77F $49.01
We stopped immediately at Safeway for ice, and hamburger
fixings. WeÕd known about Òsecret
shopperÓ since Viannah worked at VonÕs (owned by Safeway). Looking for three hamburger patties, we
did a real Òsecret shopperÓ on them.
You could buy them in boxes of 25, which we didnÕt want. You could buy frozen pre-made
hamburgers in ones or twos in another place. There were no individual patties anywhere. It took discussions with several
employees in two places in the store to establish this. At last we bought a pound of ground
beef and planned to make our own patties.
1142 drive 77F
This all had taken nearly an hour.
My history with girls
We continued talking about É things É while traversing the
Warm Springs Indian Reservation.
The Deschutes River gorge was quite deep. John took a few pictures while we rolled.
My history with girls
My dating history was so sparse that I could remember it
all, at least in outline.
I just listed all the names to start. Sixth grade, Gwen Burns. Seventh, Debby Krenek. Tenth through twelfth, Susan
Hight. Freshman homecoming at
Baylor, Carol Holck. And there had
been a few refusals, but I didnÕt have the strength to relate much of that.
And then there was your mother, but part of our story was
that we had never dated.
So, in sixth grade, this girl Gwen kissed me by surprise at
the creek near her house. We were
Òan itemÓ for about a week. As it
happens, it was below freezing all week and my mother wouldnÕt let me go over
there again, though I was cleared to ride my bike that far ordinarily.
One week to the day later, she came out of class on somebody
elseÕs arm. I think his name was
Ronnie. She was snooty about
it. I had ignored her. Later, somebody, maybe Ronnie, stole my
flute out of the band room. We had
replaced it with a used one before I found it, bent and smashed up, in a field
between the school and our house.
This was all in Pleasant Grove, a suburb of Dallas, and all
this drama occurred at John Ireland Elementary. Some good things had happened there too.
ThatÕs where we had three types of drills: fire, tornado, and atomic. For fire, you evacuated the building in
an orderly fashion while room monitors closed the windows and came out last. For tornado, you went out in the hall
and crouched with your head against the wall between knees and arms. For atomic, and I always thought this
was funny, we went out on the playground and were dismissed to go home. Presumably to go die with our families.
Anyway, we moved from there to Taylor. Robby was at Taylor, he ended up being
salutatorian of his class. The
valedictorian was Debby Krenek, daughter of an orthodontist. Neither Rob nor I could ultimately best
her at anything though we were both quite competitive. For example, she played flute and
always made it up to first chair while I made it to second or third.
Between eighth and ninth grade Debby and I had (incidentally
and independently) attended Band Camp at Sam Houston State University in
Huntsville. I had also gone after
seventh grade, but this year several others from the Taylor High School Band
had attended. This was a generic
band camp, not for our particular band or school but for whoever wanted to go
to camp for a week.
Band camp was fun in many ways. We played like we were in college, sleeping in the dorms
(under supervision of course), going to rehearsals, clinics, and classes,
having evening activities. On
Wednesday evening every year there was a dance and I wanted to take Debby to
it. Stupidly, I allowed word of
this ambition to get out and so any shyness I had had that might have motivated
me to just stay anonymous and forget about the whole thing was no longer
possible. Thirty people ended up
setting up the occasion where I would Òask herÓ for this date, just before a
sectional. I was at least clever
enough to Òpop the questionÓ while most of them had not yet started paying any
attention, kids always being more interested in whateverÕs in front of their
nose in the minute than the program at hand. She quickly assented, I think just in order to get it over
with, and we both left the scene in different directions.
We had gone in a group of two or three other couples and had
danced, more or less, and had sat around drinking punch while loud music
played. There were some other
names from the THS band and this campÉ. Jack Rainwater, David HollowayÉ. I didnÕt remember much else. Debby was a famous journalist now,
living and working in brutal New York.
She was up to it if anyone was, I thought, based on my own limited
experience.
Then we moved to Hubbard where there was Susan. I didnÕt have much to say about
Susan. I had moved to town late,
tenth grade. She picked up strays. She liked having me around as kind of a
guaranteed date, but when anything better came along she was gone quick. She permitted no formal Òarrangement,Ó
except at her convenience, and then its extent and meaning was interpreted in
whatever way she wanted. This
lasted through the rest of high school.
We went to both proms together.
My parents were unhappy about the potential. Her father, Joe-Paul, was a great guy, but potential
in-laws, as important as they might be, are secondary.
After graduating from high school I had gone to Baylor and
in the process, as I had always done before when moving, had ended nearly all
relationships in the old place, certainly that one, ditching all that pain and
starting completely over. Susan
was offended by this, but eventually married someone else, then divorced and
married someone else again. She
had four children now, late teens or beyond, in fact she might be a grandmother
by now. And the chaos
continued. Her husband worked in
Missouri, but she wouldnÕt leave her folks place out in the country between
Hubbard and Dawson to be with him.
She had a job at Baylor now; that was potentially inconvenient for me.
Carol Holck was a fellow piano major, a student of Michael
Ard. She had played in Music Hour
the first semester. I was not so
honored until second semester, after it was determined that I was working out
as a piano major after all.
My roommate David Dunaway had called Pam BjorkÕs number at
Collins Hall and asked if anyone within earshot of the telephone needed a date
for homecoming. He ended up taking
Viann in this way. Somehow I
managed to ask Carol. We even went
on a practice date to a movie or some sort of performance at Waco Hall the week
before. She was tall, quiet, and
nice, but she didnÕt like Baylor; it was too large. In the spring she went to a smaller school closer to home,
somewhere in the Midwest. At
homecoming 1974, she had little to lose on a relationship at Baylor.
We went to the game.
It was against Texas A & M.
Baylor lost 20 – 0.
This was the only game I attended while at Baylor (football or
otherwise). It was the only game
Baylor lost that year. They won
the Southwest Conference title, the first time in 50 years.
My high school journalism and geometry teacher, Jack Cisco,
had played on the winning 1924 team.
When I saw him in the homecoming parade, I had run out in the street to
shake his hand. That was the last
time I ever saw him. From the
middle of the street roommate David had taken me over to the steps of Penland
to meet his date Viann (for the first time). She came out from her job in the cafeteria there for about a
minute to watch then had gone back in.
I thought Carol and I had double dated with someone for
dinner that evening. It might have
been John Colson and someone I didnÕt remember or it might have been David and
Viann, but I didnÕt think so. Or
maybe they were in the same place but not with our party. I couldnÕt remember anything else, or
even this very well.
Viann dated many people during her first two years at
Baylor. She and I never formally
dated, we just went places together, beginning in the spring of our sophomore
year. We had Psychology and
Sailing (and Canoeing) classes together.
Then we fell in love and got engaged, and after that did a little
dating. But that was a different
and much, much longer story.
1327 Wall Street Pizza, nearing Portland 1096.0
I thought we were in Portland, but we were actually in
Sandy, which looked suburban to me.
We looked for a pizza place and found ÒWall Street PizzaÓ, a quaint,
homey non-brand place run by three guys who looked slightly older than college
age. It was late for lunch again,
but we were inching back towards a normal eating schedule. John wanted a 16Ó pizza. We had lots of leftovers for our ice
chest with the block of ice in it.
1415 drive $26.00 = $21.85 + tip
The deal with cars and driving, put him to sleep through
Portland.
Katy was wanting a car of her own. I took this opportunity to rehearse my Òcosts and
responsibilities of carsÓ speech for John. Looking over during the liability insurance portion, I noted
that he was sleeping.
The costs and responsibilities of driving cars
Katy wanted a car.
John did not want to learn to
drive, but did want to drive, eventually anyway.
The main problems with cars are that they are expensive and
dangerous. When you get into a car
for any trip, across the country or to the neighborÕs a block away, it might be
your last trip. This is a risk we
take. Forty or fifty thousand
Americans donÕt come home from car trips every single year. ThatÕs a hundred or a hundred and fifty
per day. We all know people whoÕve
been lost in this way but itÕs rare enough, and living without a car is so
impossible the way we have everything set up, that we all take the risks
several times a day.
Viannah was trying to set up her life on the east coast to
where she would never have to own a car.
Public transportation was better there. It might be possible.
She had had tickets and wrecks, and a lawsuit from one of them that had
just been settled this year. Like
me, she would just as soon avoid dealing with all that by not being involved
with automobiles. WeÕd see how it
went.
But for those who do perceive the need of a car and arenÕt
troubled by these things my policy was to temper the freedoms of driving with
the real costs. As each kid
started driving I would ask the insurance agent what the difference was when
adding them to my coverage, and I would have them pay that. This is only part of the cost of a car,
but a major one, enough to get your attention.
The kids would see cars on the street for $800 or $2000 and
wonder if they could buy them. ÒDo
they run?Ó I would ask. Any car
going that cheap has to have some story.
ÒDo you have any idea what it would cost to get a car like that running,
or keep it running for six months, or even get it to pass a smog test on the
sale?Ó
Well, I didnÕt either, but it was not going to be zero.
So, when you had a car, you had its initial cost, several
thousand dollars, plus the cost of financing that if you borrowed to buy
it. Then there was the cost of
inspections and maintenance.
Things would break, like a windshield or a window motor and require a
bunch of money to fix. Or do
without, but you couldnÕt do without a windshield. Or wipersÉ.
Then there was insurance, oh, and of course, gas and oil.
For the 1996 Astro that preceded this Safari, I had kept
careful records over the hundred and four thousand mile life it had with
us. It had been fifty thousand
dollars and change, fifty cents a mile.
People argued with me about counting things like insurance or
amortization per mile, but I argued that I paid fifty thousand dollars for a
hundred thousand miles, any way you accounted it, I had gotten a mile for every
fifty cents paid.
This put the cost of gasoline in perspective. At that time gasoline was about ten
cents a mile. Now it was around
twenty, so the total was probably more like sixty cents a mile.
This put a bus fare of $1.25 for a ride of four miles, or
twenty, in perspective too.
Yes, there were ways to reduce this. Buy used. Haggle with the mechanic more. The IRS only allowed thirty-two cents a mile, or now it
might be thirty-four or something.
The costly miles rolled by under usÉ.
Anyway, I was all for kids having cars, but I couldnÕt
afford to just provide them for free.
Clearly you had to be bringing in good money to afford to own and
operate the car that took you to work and back.
John was asleep.
[Editing note, 1/29/10, cbd. I had intended to trade that van when the 72 month / 100,000
mile warranty ran out, that is, about a month after this trip but it was
cheaper to just keep it. It served
in increasing decay for three and a half more years, to 116,444 miles
total. Last month Katy was driving
home from swing dancing with the car full of people (eight) when the right rear
tire blew out and shredded. They
changed to the spare and got home safely but that was the last straw. I just this moment got off the phone
with Cars for Causes http://www.cars4causes.net/
arranging to donate whatÕs left to Elizabeth House http://elizabethhouse.net/ .]
1500 1093.0 80F Washington
John awoke briefly as we crossed into a new state, now on
I-5 with lots of cellphone signal bars.
1556 1179.1 Mt. St. Helens Visitor Ctr. 77F
Wetlands walk
Taking the well-marked exit, we drove up to the Mt. St.
Helens Visitor Center. The air was
clear today and there was a pretty fair view of the mountain. It looked like there was a viewing area
upstairs in the building, but it was just architecture. As it turned out there was not a
publicly accessible upstairs.
The cost was $3.00 for 16 and up. John had less than 48 hours of being 15. I paid and got an armband. John got to be a kid.
We watched their movie and walked through their exhibits,
learning about Mt. St. Helens, its history, its famous 1980 eruption, some of
the personal stories of death and injury from that poorly predicted event. We bought a puzzle and postcards in
their store.
Outside was a wetlands trail that advertised being a
mile. With the camera on ready, we
started down it. Soon we were on
boardwalks walking over a swamp. I
tried some flower pictures. Then
the trail switched to an abandoned railroad grade, a little out of the
water. Then it returned to built
up boardwalks and led back to the other side of the Visitor Center. They were closed now and we were
passing the employee exit and parking area on the way back to our van.
Some people were just arriving with fishing gear and
cameras. I thought they might be
locals who knew the fishing drill but their license plate was Alabama.
1831 drive – Toledo Vader
Right at the exit from the Visitor Center was a
campground. A sign was up in the
middle of the road, ÒFull.Ó
We drove back to the freeway. The exit for Highway 504 that we were on had two hotels. Neither looked good. The plan was to spend the night here
somewhere, then go out to the actual mountain in the morning. This could be done on either of
highways 504 or 505. I wanted to
find a better hotel so we drove fifteen miles up to the 505 exit.
It was totally rural.
So, we drove east on 505, looking for town. The exit was ÒToledo –
VaderÓ. We kept chanting ÒToledo
Vader, Toledo VaderÓ (like Darth Vader).
We came up to Toledo. There
was a high school football field, busses, and students. No hotels.
Having ÒwastedÓ over half an hour, we went back towards the
504 exit.
1920 1215.6 hotel
1934 Room 212 Smoking 76F 1215.6
We were late arriving at Timberland Inn & Suites. There was a line at the check in
desk. It was moving slowly. The overhang nearby was seriously, but
only cosmetically, damaged, possibly by a recreational vehicle.
They had no rooms left except one smoking one. The people in front of me
declined. I took the room. We went up and opened the door. It was a wall of old smoke smell. We turned on the air and opened the
window. No pool.
No thumbs up, several signs. Another stopwatchÉ.
Signs along the road were pictures of a hand with a thumb up
with the universal ÒnotÓ symbol over it.
IÕd seen dozens in the last couple of days.
ÒAhh, no hitchhiking.Ó
John stopped another stopwatch.
Mexican Food
We shut the window and went to the generic no-name Mexican
Food place next door. It was here
just for this. The place seemed to
have more adult supervision than we were used to, but we did train one
waitress; it was her first night.
Talked about John being 3rd like momma. And his son.
And my motherÕs three pregnancies and the religion of
life placement.
While eating we talked about JohnÕs placement in the
family. Third children seem to be
more easygoing, at least judging from John and his mother. First children have it tough, they
train their parents who over- or under-react to everything. Second (or ÒmiddleÓ) children have to
fight for their space. Third (or
ÒlastÓ) children go along and get along.
My mother had had three pregnancies and had nearly died from
the first, a tubular pregnancy.
Dad had told the story that the doctor (Dr. Courtney Townsend, who also
delivered me, breech) had told him that she had about 45 seconds to live when
they operated. I never knew when
that was exactly, but it was from Roxton to the hospital in Paris, so it had
been at least a twenty minute drive into town and it had been sometime within
the year or two before I was born.
All such events have profound and seemingly random effect on
who we are and whether we exist at all.
In the statistical way of looking at it, no one has hardly any chance of
existing at all. Some think that
there are Òlife forcesÓ that exist separate from corporal bodies and are only
placed after the physical bodies are established. This was a religious belief. All religions explain the unexplainable, the religion of
science included. I didnÕt really
know what to think myself; it all seemed fantastic to me.
Played Cattan – he won 10-7
Viann works days tomorrow – probably cancelled
We played Settlers of Cattan again in another format.
I was still losing.
We talked to Viann.
She was supposed to work at Huntington tomorrow but thought she might be
cancelled and hoped so. She was
planning to resign, just needed to find the time to write the resignation
letter.
Hotel number 360 274 6002 – earthlink 967 4001
Need a 6Õ RJ-45 cable for rooms like this – and
nail clippers.
I got on line and did my usual chores. Brief e-mail, check APRS; see where it
thinks we are.
This room had high speed internet but in the form of Òbring
your own network cable.Ó The room
in Madras had a network cable with a big instruction placard on it, making it
undesirable to steal. I didnÕt have
my own network cable. Added it to
the shopping list, and nail clippers.
2006 August 5
Went to the 9:00 IMAX show $12
The hotel was right next door to a big screen I-Max or
I-Max-like theater. It was a
different movie with slightly different treatment of the same Mt. St. Helens
material. Outside there was an
extensive gift shop. This was, I
supposed, the Òright off the freewayÓ for profit version of the official
Visitor Center.
0952 1215.6 = 88976 65F $93.95
0959 1215.7 66F Shell $3.059 X 12.048 = $36.85
added
air to all tires, high 20s to low 30s
1014 drive
Immediately after the show we checked out, filled up, and
got on the way out to the vista at the very end of the road. There was a small slash in our right
rear tire that IÕd been watching.
No problem yet, no change.
All tires were about five pounds low so I paid $.50 to fill them up.
1119 1268.2 Johnston Observatory $3.00
At the end of the road, 50 miles inland, is Johnston
Observatory, named for David Johnston, the 30 year old geologist who was on
duty there when the big eruption had occurred in 1980. He was among the dead. He had been among those who believed
that the bulge on the side of the mountain would result in a lateral blast but
conventional wisdom, Òestablished scientific factÓ at the time was that
volcanic blasts only went up from the top. This, despite other volcanoes in the world that had
experienced side eruptions and looked very similar to what Mt. St. Helens looks
like today.
This was an important official error. The red and yellow blast zones had been
defined in terms of a projected upward eruption. Even then, the government had not taken the initiative to
clear out even the red zone in places where it happened to be private
property. Spirit Lake lodge owner
Harry R. Truman had famously said that the mountain didnÕt have enough oomph to
have a big eruption. The lodge,
most of the lake, and Mr. Truman were all now permanently buried under hundreds
of feet of debris.
An amateur radio operator reporting from an RV in the red
zone had also been lost, after giving a last report of the eruption in
progress.
We learned all this while watching yet another movie about
Mt. St. Helens and itÕs recent history.
When the show ended, the screen was pulled up to reveal a large window
viewing the mountain.
I had paid $3.00 again to get in. John was still 15 today.
Several seismographs were part of the exhibits, as well as
detailed versions of the stories IÕve just told and many others. The seismographs were live. John had learned that earthquakes and
landslides registered differently and had learned to tell the difference.
We stood by for a ranger talk out on the observation
deck. The mountain was only a few
miles away and, we had been told, was reopened for hiking. The open side where the explosion had
removed a cubic mile of rock was clearly visible as was a new cone forming
inside. Barring other catastrophic
eruptions, this tiny cone would eventually build up to another mountaintop
similar to the one lost, in one or two hundred years. A little steam was venting, otherwise it was a very clear
day.
We went on a hike to the east and saw guard rails heavily
infested with termites. Some
distance away was a granite monument to those killed in the eruption, about
thirty in all. We scanned the
names looking for people weÕd read about or seen in the shows. Most names were not familiar.
One of the presentations had featured a vulcanologist who
was worried that any of the ten or so volcanoes in the Cascades could erupt
catastrophically in the near geological future, that is, possibly in our
lifetimes. This included several
mountains with much more development and population nearby like Mt. Rainier,
Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, even Mt. Shasta.
Major events there would be much more deadly than the 1980 eruption of
St. Helens.
This was all driven by the Juan de Fuca tectonic plate
burrowing below the region, about seventy five miles deep at this point. I described Sea Floor Geodesy to John,
a technique developed in part by my old boss Larry Young in which sonar devices
were placed on the ocean floor which transponded to buoys with sonar and GPS on
the surface. Some such had been
placed off shore up here, on the Pacific side of the Juan de Fuca plate, to
compare with other sites on adjacent land. I described how IÕd been on one of the early Sea Floor
Geodesy test runs, off of Catalina back in 1990. That was the trip on which two of the three sea floor
transponders had failed, and we had circled the working one at two knots in Òsea
state fourÓ for a couple of days.
I had thrown up immediately on departure and hadnÕt eaten most of the
rest of the trip. For ten years,
diesel odors had brought back the nausea.
Ughh.
I thought about the middle-of-the-night earthquakes in the
Los Angeles area. ÒIf this had
happened during the daytime,Ó commentators would say, Òthere might have been
ten thousand people in that shopping mall.Ó How long would we be lucky?
saw an eruption, hiked around
other people heard Òtwo distinct pops
The loop trail ended up back in the parking lot but John
needed to go the restroom before we hit the road so we went back up into the
observation area. The crowd was
astir. There had been a minor
event on the small cone. People
had heard two pops then smoke started pouring out. I got pictures of our little ÒeruptionÓ to match the
ÒbeforeÓ pictures IÕd taken earlier.
Fascinating.
1345 drive away amongst big and increasing crowd
1350 68F
It was Saturday and the crowds were building fast. Several tourist busses were
arriving. We drove away, sudden
experts on volcanoes in the Cascades.
1455 1318.8 80F stop in Toledo to consult map
listening
to Saint-Saens 3 concertos
John
fell asleep in 1st movement of piano (4)
And
awoke 1st movement of violin (7)
As we drove back down the long road it was my turn for a
CD. John pulled out the three
concertos of Saint-Saens, Cello (Yo-Yo Ma), Piano, and Violin. The story on this one was that one of
my classmates at Baylor, Mack Sawyer, had played the first movement of the
piano concerto with the Baylor Symphony when he was a senior and I was a
sophomore. I could still visualize
the performance and, afterwards when our teacher, Jane Abbott, had stopped by
my chair on the way out to say, ÒYour turn is coming up.Ó Two years later I would play the first
movement of the Khachaturian Piano Concerto to close a similar concert.
Winding through the valleys scorched by the volcano, many of
them replanted since 1980 (according to the roadside signs), John fell asleep
just as the piano concerto started only to awake during the much less familiar,
more edgy, and longer Violin Concert.
We took 505 when it branched rather than staying on 504 that
went south where weÕd already been.
I stopped in Toledo to consult the map. I wanted to proceed to Mt. Rainier today without returning
to the freeway if at all possible.
It would have been possible to hike from Johnston Ridge to roads that
would make this a much straighter trip, but there was no driving route. We cruised through town, seeing a
police car parked on the other side of the of the river bridge. We saw many police cars and motorcycles
on the trip. I was never in danger
of being stopped. I was always
going at or less than the speed limit, never being familiar with the roads or
where I was going on them.
We pulled over for another long consultation with the
map. I was on the Jackson
Highway. This looked like it went
up to Highway 12 without returning to I-5. That would do.
We passed airports, some of which featured skydiving. We passed by and over lakes, many of
them with Saturday afternoon recreational enthusiasts on them in tubes, skis,
and boats. Some were just
swimming. At Morton we turned
north on 7, a more winding road then, a few miles along, east again on 706
which passed many resorts on the climb to Mt. Rainier National Park.
1615 1386.- 75F Mt. Rainier NP $15
no
camping spots in the whole park
Right there at the main (Nisqually) entrance it said
ÒCampsites Full.Ó I asked
anyway. How on earth could a
person come to Mt. Rainier on a random Saturday some August not having planned
the trip a year or two in advance so as to get a reservation for a
campsite? The clerk thought
probably not. The big Mazama-like
campground was Cougar Rock with hundreds of sites and they had not called the
entrance to tell them to take down the sign so there were probably no
vacancies.
We paid our fees and drove into the park. The entrance had a very National Park
like flavor. A big entryway made
of logs, signs made of logs, narrow, crowded roads.
1642 continue around ÒNow youÕre worriedÓ (even John)
It was nine miles up to Cougar Rock, a long way to drive on
these mountain roads on a long shot that we could get a site. I drove up to the station there and
asked the college-age kid about the possibilities. Without a reservation there were none inside the park. Outside of the park there were several
national forests with campgrounds that usually had some room for overflow. Also, outside the park it was
permissible to put up your tent on the side of the road.
We discussed our options.
1734 1415.1 stop at box canyon
The big tourist attraction in the park is Paradise. Much of the Paradise area and its
roadways were under construction.
We took the one-way loop through the valley but did not stop. The visitor center there, and the lodge
and other facilities, were situated in a very scenic spot with great views of
the snow-covered peak above to the north.
Doubtless the first site to be swept away in a 700 degree 700 mile per
hour heat wave followed by a pyroclastic flow, I thought.
There was even a complicated shuttle bus schedule for those
who wanted to go to Paradise but wanted to park elsewhere.
We drove along slowly, collecting a few new license
plates. By this point we had
forty-something states and were looking for different categories. For instance, ÒDo we have Oregon in a
three unit jet-ski trailer?Ó
We stopped a few places for scenic pictures of the mountain
and forests. John asked how much a
billion was. Were there a billion
trees out there? From up here
maybe we could see a billion trees.
I estimated. A billion
would only be 30,000 square, that is roughly 30,000 on a side of the area. That might be a few tens of miles
square. Yes, maybe. Certainly a significant fraction of a
billion, like a few hundred million.
We argued about the arithmetic.
This carried on through vast vistas and then we went through
a tunnel and came out at a box canyon.
Parking, we got out and walked on the bridge to see the creek 180 feet
below and take pictures. There had
been a box canyon at the Grand Canyon too. It was supposed to be the last three or four miles of the
hike on the first day but it had seemed twenty-five miles long the day I was
there.
1743 go on (to Seattle)
Going on down the road we thought we might just drive
through the park and around the east end of the mountain, then go on into
Seattle tonight. It wouldnÕt be
that far and the twilight was long here in the north. It might be possible without driving after dark, or we could
just break the rule.
The road descended switchbacks with tight turns at the end
of each. Cars would pile up behind
me. I couldnÕt go as fast as a
low, road-hugging sports car, nor did I want to.
1840 drove through Silver Springs overflow
On Highway 410, we passed a campground, turned around and
went back. The host said they were
full but had some overflow space down in the picnic area by the river. We drove down and looked at it. Two tents were already up on the end and
there would be space for one more comfortably in the middle. John was ready to go but I wasnÕt. We left and continued north.
Now I was ambivalent, wanting to camp again but wanting to
stay in a hotel again too.
Why does everyone say veeunuh (Viannah)?
Suddenly without provocation, John blurted out, ÒWhy does
everyone say veeahnuh when pronouncing Viannah?Ó It was irritating, a lifelong problem, training every person
in the world one at a time to properly pronounce both Viannah and Viann.
I half thought about some answers but didnÕt have the mental
strength left to argue the points.
1856 The Dalles Campground, Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National
Forest Site 4 1454.0
nice pit toilets, use ÒBounceÓ for de-oderizer
The next campground did have a few places. We paid one night and bought a bundle
of wood. Although it wasnÕt close
to getting dark yet, we were on the shadow side of the mountain, so it was
getting dark for us.
Neighbors blasting Rap. John is blasting Stravinsky ÒThe Rite of SpringÓ and later
ÒWest Side StoryÓ
We put up camp, got water, the usual things. A well-equipped outfit across the road
from us had maybe a dozen people and was playing rap on a big boom box or
worse. John knew the song, hated
rap, got out his CD player and put on StravinskyÕs ÒThe Rite of Spring.Ó For the next most of an hour they were
going Òthump, chi-boom, thump chi-boom,Ó we were going, Òwhump Whump whump
whump / whump Whump whumpÓ. After
that ran out, he put on the soundtrack for West Side Story.
Our camp lantern was malfunctioning, blowing out its
mantels. I would have to work on
this.
By flashlight, we divided up our ground beef into four
patties and cooked two of them over the stove in the pan. I didnÕt want this meat from Oregon to
get old and dangerous.
The Dalles campground was on the White River.
2006 August 6 Sunday 56F
1530 = 0830 DSP-10 group on 3815 LSB 0846 QNI
W7PUA
55 Bob Strong
KD7TS
53 Mike
W7SLB
54 Bob 59 but Q3ish
W7LHL
57 Ernie –
Bob recommends Port Angeles route. Rest of coast is Òboring.Ó Ferries can be busy. Reported N5BF-2 to them.
0902 QNF
I got up and checked into the DSP-10 net for a second
time. They were calling for me
every day, but I had only been able to configure for 75 meters on days of
repose like this where we werenÕt in a hurry to do something else.
I had good copy on the four guys who were there. Two of them were reading me. Man made noise levels are much worse in
town where all of them were, then out in a campground on the east side of a big
mountain, where we were.
The group was aware of APRS but had never used it. There were misunderstandings about the
N5BF-2 reference, the APRS on-air address we were using. QNI means the time that I checked
in. QNF means the end of the net.
Bob had more useful tourist tips.
Tore down the lantern and cleaned it. Shrader valve needs replacing and I
donÕt have one of them so donÕt expect it to improve.
I didnÕt have the part needed, something else for the
shopping list.
Highway 410 is loud – especially motorcycles.
Our row of campsites was on grade and about fifty yards from
the road. Occasionally a herd of
motorcycles would go by, few with any kind of muffler.
1109 Success at the pit toilet!
Those sheets of Bounce
hanging around everywhere made it nearly pleasant too.
Now going to have church and fix JohnÕs bike.
Church.
Matthew 5:1-12.
Poor
in spirit
Mourn
– dad
Meek
Righteousness
Mercy
Pure in heart
Peacemakers
Persecution
I gave John the assignment to read the Beatitudes for
us. He got out his own student
Bible for this. We discussed each
one. What does it mean to be Òpoor
in spirit?Ó Who is a Òpeacemaker.Ó We talked about what each seemed to
mean, what weÕd heard in preaching that they meant, and what we thought from
experience that they meant.
When we talked about those who mourned, it brought up the
memory of Virginia ThompsonÕs funeral at Henrietta. Virginia was 14 and on the way to a high school basketball
game when she was killed in a car wreck.
Dad had preached the funeral.
He had sometimes told the story that he had been in the study, behind
the pulpit, unable to go out and begin, when he felt someone behind him. He turned and no one was there. He had believed that it was Jesus who
had given him the strength to carry on.
I had attended that funeral.
It had been a hard week on the whole town. I was eight at the time.
I started crying.
I told John about the process of mourning. When someone important is gone, you
mourn. Eventually you get back to
ÒnormalÓ but it is a different ÒnormalÓ from the one when they were there. To reach this, I had found that you
have to do everything new, without them.
Eat, sleep, go to church, have Christmas, go on a trip.
Once youÕd done this, the new ÒnormalÓ was established and
you could go on, but you would always miss them. I was pretty much over dadÕs loss now, in this fashion. It had taken about a year for me to get
to the new Ònormal,Ó but there were always a few new things that would surprise
you and bring up the mourning again.
Conducting church in a campground for the first time since he was gone,
for exampleÉ.
Along the same lines, funerals are not for the dead, they
are for the living. They are
something you can do, inadequate though it seems, to begin to move along. All who remain here must move along.
1230 fix flat
We got the bikes out of the van. JohnÕs had a flat.
This was about the third flat in the last ten riding miles.
We had all the equipment, and the good pump, to work on this
and so the flat tube (it had torn around the valve) was soon replaced and we
were able to ride.
Ride all around campground in swimsuits. Wade in water up to knees freezing
numb. Went up and down. Others there not Òswimming.Ó
We rode all around the campground and came to a place on the
day-use end that was close enough to the White River to get off and wade
in. We had worn swim suits and
sandals just for this possibility.
(John always wore sandals, at least I had mine with me on this trip.)
The water was cold,
snow runoff. We crossed a stream
to an island in the middle of the river.
Others were walking around on shore, bundled up though it was mid-day,
collecting rocks and flowers and things.
No one else was swimming or seriously wading.
We traveled quite a ways upstream like this, making several
crossings then turned back and made them all again on the way back to the
bikes. People were setting up
picnics for Sunday afternoon.
End 1327 0:15:51 9.8 av, 2.61 12.81 4728.5 23.5 mx
This was my standard notation entry for the biking log. It had been 2.6 km, about a mile and a
half.
Lunch – other hamburgers. Need mustard, ice, nail clippers.
We cooked up the other two hamburgers for lunch, discovering
in the process that we were out of mustard and needed ice. É and nail clippers, yes.
John had been reading a book, Dairy, a novel by Chuck Palahniuk, the author of Fight
Club.
So, that had to be edgy.
Finally he finished and gave it to me. He wanted me to read it and explain some things to him. I had started in, read the first few
chapters here and there, but when we were in rooms the TV was too insistent and
eventually the book ended up on the big pile with everything else by the bed at
home.
1518 change -10 to mic-e, echo wide-2, 180 offset 40
enroute
Frustrated with the non-performance of N5BF-10 on 30 meters,
but realizing that I couldnÕt complain without starting a bevy of Òyou should
have done thus-and-soÓ replies, I fired up the computer, connected the
interface to the Tiny Trak 3, and changed the parameters. First, it was changed to a briefer
binary format. This was supposed
to increase the chances of packets getting through. Second, I changed the times of hour it would transmit. It had been on the 2s and 7s, that is
:02, :07, :12, :17, etc. Now it
would be every three minutes at 40 seconds past the minute. This was to prevent packet collisions
that I thought I was hearing when I had been monitoring before.
So, weÕd try another day of this then evaluate again.
1528 1454.0 80=27C drive
The bikes back in the car, and camp struck and reloaded, we
drove away from the Dalles Campground.
The plan was to drive into Seattle on 410 and start looking around. I wasnÕt worried about finding a room
on Sunday evening. John was
navigating.